Guide to Wire Gauges in Jewellery Making
What Is Wire Gauge?
Wire gauge refers to the thickness (diameter) of a wire. The most common system for jewellery making is the American Wire Gauge (AWG). In this system:
The higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire.
The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire.
Wire Gauge Chart
|
Gauge (AWG) |
Diameter (inches) |
Diameter (mm) |
Common Uses |
|
12 |
0.080" |
2.05 mm |
Heavy bangles, structural pieces |
|
14 |
0.064" |
1.63 mm |
Neck wires, armatures |
|
16 |
0.051" |
1.29 mm |
Thick jump rings, clasps |
|
18 |
0.040" |
1.02 mm |
Ear wires, sturdy components |
|
20 |
0.032" |
0.81 mm |
General purpose: head pins, eye pins, small jump rings |
|
22 |
0.025" |
0.64 mm |
Wrapping wire, links |
|
24 |
0.020" |
0.51 mm |
Light wrapping, wire weaving |
|
26 |
0.016" |
0.41 mm |
Wire wrapping, detailing |
|
28 |
0.013" |
0.32 mm |
Delicate wrapping, fine weaves |
|
30 |
0.010" |
0.25 mm |
Micro-detail work, stitching beads |
Choosing the Right Gauge
1. Structural vs Decorative
Thicker wires (12–18 gauge): Provide strength and are great for structural elements like frames, bangles, or neck wires.
Medium wires (20–24 gauge): Used for connecting elements like jump rings, ear wires, and head pins.
Thinner wires (26–30 gauge): Best for wire wrapping, crochet, or weaving into delicate patterns.
2. Soft vs Hard Wire
Dead soft: Very malleable. Best for intricate wraps.
Half-hard: Holds shape better. Ideal for ear wires, hooks, and functional components.
Full-hard: Strong but tough to shape by hand. Used in applications needing durability.
Best Wire Gauges for Common Jewellery Types
|
Jewellery Type |
Recommended Gauge |
|
Ear wires |
20–18 |
|
Jump rings |
18–16 |
|
Head/eye pins |
20–22 |
|
Wire wrapping |
24–30 |
|
Bangles/frames |
14–12 |
|
Bead stitching |
28–30 |
Tips for Working with Wire Gauges
Use appropriate tools: Heavier gauges require stronger pliers and cutters.
Test for skin sensitivity: Some people are sensitive to thicker ear wires.
Practice with copper or brass: Before using expensive silver or gold.
Work-harden wire as needed: Twist, hammer, or tumble to make soft wire more rigid.
Wire Materials to Consider
Copper: Affordable, easy to work with. Great for practice.
Sterling Silver: Classic choice, good for both structure and wrapping.
Gold-filled: More affordable than solid gold, retains colour well.
Aluminium: Lightweight, available in many colours, but softer.
Brass/Bronze: Durable with a vintage look.